Wednesday, November 3, 2010
I woke up from a nap this afternoon feeling terrible again. Sick to a point that I couldn't even get up. So, I layed there trying to work out what the problem might be and the possible consequences of getting on the bike and going training feeling like that.
Then, I thought about the young surfer who passed away this morning from a viral disease - Dengue Fever.
I have to say, I don't get shocked with this sort of news often, death is a natural thing and happens all the time, right? But I was touched when I saw the headlines.
No, I never met the guy but perhaps it is true when it is said that there is a kind of link when two people are passionate about the same thing, in this case surfing.
It has been months since I caught a wave and years since I had a really good time in the surf but there are very few days that I don't think about it. In fact, two or three days ago, when I was feeling sick and couldn't get on the bike to train, I thought that perhaps it was time to give up and just go back to a laid-back lifestyle of enjoying the sun and the surf.
More over, if I could go back in time and choose an occupation, like any occupation, I would choose Professional Surfing. I am passionate about cycling as well and I wouldn't mind making a living out of riding bikes but there was something about surfing that... as the old cliche says: Only a surfer knows the feeling!
I checked the Billabong website - they sponsored Andy Irons - and found this promotional video. It is simple, it is kind of funny but it tells a story about a young man who was very passionate about what he did. I liked it and I particularly liked his last statement about what he loved doing.
Buddy, thanks for being such a legendary surfer!
Posted by AMR at 7:37 PM